Name a Food Aroma That Would Make a Good Perfume Family Feud
Perfume
Background
Since the beginning of recorded history, humans have attempted to mask or enhance their ain odor by using perfume, which emulates nature's pleasant smells. Many natural and man-fabricated materials have been used to brand perfume to apply to the skin and clothing, to put in cleaners and cosmetics, or to scent the air. Considering of differences in body chemistry, temperature, and body odors, no perfume volition odour exactly the same on any two people.
Perfume comes from the Latin "per" meaning "through" and "fumum," or "smoke." Many aboriginal perfumes were fabricated by extracting natural oils from plants through pressing and steaming. The oil was then burned to scent the air. Today, nigh perfume is used to scent bar soaps. Some products are fifty-fifty perfumed with industrial odorants to mask unpleasant smells or to announced "unscented."
While fragrant liquids used for the trunk are oft considered perfume, true perfumes are defined as extracts or essences and comprise a percent of oil distilled in alcohol. H2o is also used. The U.s.a. is the earth's largest perfume market with annual sales totalling several billions of dollars.
History
Co-ordinate to the Bible, Iii Wise Men visited the baby Jesus carrying myrrh and frankincense. Ancient Egyptians burned incense chosen kyphi —fabricated of henna, myrrh, cinnamon, and juniper—as religious offerings. They soaked aromatic wood, mucilage, and resins in h2o and oil and used the liquid equally a fragrant body lotion. The early Egyptians besides perfumed their dead and often assigned specific fragrances to deities. Their word for perfume has been translated as "fragrance of the gods." It is said that the Moslem prophet Mohammed wrote, "Perfumes are foods that reawaken the spirit."
Eventually Egyptian perfumery influenced the Greeks and the Romans. For hundreds of years after the fall of Rome, perfume was primarily an Oriental art. It spread to Europe when 13th century Crusaders brought dorsum samples from Palestine to England, French republic, and Italy. Europeans discovered the healing backdrop of fragrance during the 17th century. Doctors treating plague victims covered their mouths and noses with leather pouches belongings pungent cloves, cinnamon, and spices which they thought would protect them from disease.
Perfume and then came into widespread utilize amid the monarchy. France's King Louis 14 used it so much that he was called the "perfume male monarch." His court contained a floral pavilion filled with fragrances, and dried flowers were placed in bowls throughout the palace to freshen the air. Royal guests bathed in goat's milk and rose petals. Visitors were oftentimes doused with perfume, which also was sprayed on wearable, article of furniture, walls, and tableware. It was at this time that Grasse, a region of southern France where many angiosperm varieties grow, became a leading producer of perfumes.
Meanwhile, in England, aromatics were contained in lockets and the hollow heads of canes to be sniffed past the possessor. It was not until the late 1800s, when synthetic chemicals were used, that perfumes could be mass marketed. The start synthetic perfume was nitrobenzene, fabricated from nitric acid and benzene. This synthetic mixture gave off an almond odor and was often used to scent soaps. In 1868, Englishman William Perkin synthesized coumarin from the South American tonka bean to create a fragrance that smelled like freshly sown hay. Ferdinand Tiemann of the University of Berlin created synthetic violet and vanilla. In the United States, Francis Despard Dodge created citronellol—an alcohol with rose-like odor—past experimenting with citronella, which is derived from citronella oil and has a lemon-like scent. In different variations, this constructed chemical compound gives off the scents of sweet pea, lily of the valley, narcissus, and hyacinth.
Just equally the art of perfumery progressed through the centuries, so did the art of the perfume bottle. Perfume bottles were frequently as elaborate and exotic as the oils they contained. The earliest specimens date dorsum to about 1000 B.C. In ancient Egypt, newly invented glass bottles were made largely to hold perfumes. The crafting of perfume bottles spread into Europe and reached its peak in Venice in the 18th century, when glass containers assumed the shape of small animals or had pastoral scenes painted on them. Today perfume bottles are designed past the manufacturer to reflect the graphic symbol of the fragrance inside, whether light and flowery or dark and musky.
Raw Materials
Natural ingredients—flowers, grasses, spices, fruit, wood, roots, resins, balsams, leaves, gums, and beast secretions—likewise equally resources like alcohol, petrochemicals, coal, and coal tars are used in the manufacture of perfumes. Some plants, such equally lily of the valley, do not produce oils naturally. In fact, simply near 2,000 of the 250,000 known flowering plant species incorporate these essential oils. Therefore, synthetic chemicals must be used to re-create the smells of not-oily substances. Synthetics likewise create original scents not institute in nature.
Some perfume ingredients are animal products. For example, castor comes from beavers, musk from male deer, and ambergris from the sperm whale. Animal substances are frequently used as fixatives that enable perfume to evaporate slowly and emit odors longer. Other fixatives include coal tar, mosses, resins, or synthetic chemicals. Alcohol and sometimes water are used to dilute ingredients in perfumes. It is the ratio of alcohol to odour that determines whether the perfume is "eau de toilette" (toilet water) or cologne.
The Manufacturing
Procedure
Collection
- 1 Earlier the manufacturing process begins, the initial ingredients must be brought to the manufacturing center. Plant substances are harvested from effectually the world, often hand-picked for their fragrance. Animal products are obtained by extracting the fatty substances directly from the animal. Aromatic chemicals used in synthetic perfumes are created in the laboratory past perfume chemists.
Extraction
Oils are extracted from constitute substances past several methods: steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression.
- 2 In steam distillation, steam is passed through found textile held in a however, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, and liquified. Oils can also be extracted by boiling plant substances like bloom petals in water instead of steaming them.
- 3 Under solvent extraction, flowers are put into big rotating tanks or drums and benzene or a petroleum ether is poured over the flowers, extracting the essential oils. The flower parts dissolve in the solvents and leave a waxy material that contains the oil, which is then placed in ethyl booze. The oil dissolves in the alcohol and rises. Heat is used to evaporate the alcohol, which in one case fully burned off, leaves a higher concentration of the perfume oil on the bottom.
- 4 During enfleurage, flowers are spread on glass sheets coated with grease. The glass sheets are placed between wooden frames in tiers. Then the flowers are removed past hand and changed until the grease has absorbed their fragrance.
- five Maceration is similar to enfleurage except that warmed fats are used to soak up the flower smell. Every bit in solvent extraction, the grease and fats are dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils.
- 6 Expression is the oldest and least complex method of extraction. By this process, now used in obtaining citrus oils from the rind, the fruit or plant is manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is squeezed out.
Blending
- 7 Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be composite together according to a formula determined past a master in the field, known as a "olfactory organ." It may have every bit many as 800 different ingredients and several years to develop the special formula for a scent.
After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. The amount of alcohol in a scent can vary profoundly. Nearly full perfumes are made of virtually 10-twenty% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water. Colognes comprise approximately three-five% oil diluted in eighty-90% alcohol, with water making upwards about x%. Toilet water has the least corporeality—2% oil in 60-80% alcohol and twenty% h2o.
Aging
- eight Fine perfume is often anile for several months or fifty-fifty years afterwards information technology is blended. Following this, a "nose" will once again exam the perfume to ensure that the right odour has been achieved. Each essential oil and perfume has three notes: "Notes de tete," or top notes, "notes de coeur," central or heart notes, and "notes de fond," base notes. Acme notes have tangy or citrus-like smells; central notes (aromatic flowers like rose and jasmine) provide body, and base notes (woody fragrances) provide an indelible fragrance. More "notes," of diverse smells, may be further blended.
Quality Command
Because perfumes depend heavily on harvests of found substances and the availability of animal products, perfumery tin ofttimes turn risky. Thousands of flowers are needed to obtain just one pound of essential oils, and if the season's crop is destroyed by disease or agin conditions, perfumeries could be in jeopardy. In addition, consistency is difficult to maintain in natural oils. The same species of plant raised in several different areas with slightly different growing weather may non yield oils with exactly the same scent.
Problems are also encountered in collecting natural animal oils. Many animals once killed for the value of their oils are on the endangered species listing and now cannot be hunted. For example, sperm whale products like ambergris have been outlawed since 1977. Also, almost animal oils in general are hard and expensive to extract. Deer musk must come up from deer constitute in Tibet and China; civet cats, bred in Ethiopia, are kept for their fatty gland secretions; beavers from Canada and the sometime Soviet Union are harvested for their brush.
Synthetic perfumes take allowed perfumers more liberty and stability in their arts and crafts, even though natural ingredients are considered more desirable in the very finest perfumes. The use of synthetic perfumes and oils eliminates the demand to extract oils from animals and removes the take a chance of a bad plant harvest, saving much expense and the lives of many animals.
The Future
Perfumes today are existence made and used in different means than in previous centuries. Perfumes are being manufactured more than and more frequently with synthetic chemicals rather than natural oils. Less full-bodied forms of perfume are likewise becoming increasingly pop. Combined, these factors decrease the toll of the scents, encouraging more widespread and frequent, often daily, employ.
Using perfume to heal, make people feel good, and improve relationships between the sexes are the new frontiers being explored by the manufacture. The sense of smell is considered a correct brain activity, which rules emotions, memory, and creativity. Aromatherapy—smelling oils and fragrances to cure physical and emotional problems—is beingness revived to assist balance hormonal and body energy. The theory behind aromatherapy states that using essential oils helps eternalize the immune system when inhaled or practical topically. Smelling sweet smells also affects one'due south mood and can be used equally a course of psychotherapy.
Like aromatherapy, more research is being conducted to synthesize human being perfume—that is, the torso scents we produce to concenter or repel other humans. Humans, like other mammals, release pheromones to attract the opposite sex. New perfumes are being created to duplicate the upshot of pheromones and stimulate sexual arousal receptors in the encephalon. Not only may the perfumes of the future help people cover upward "bad" smells, they could amend their physical and emotional well-being as well as their sex lives.
Where To Learn More than
Periodicals
Bylinsky, Gene. "Finally, A Good Aphrodisiac?" Fortune, October 21, 1991, p. 18.
Dark-green, Timothy. "Making Scents Is More Complicated Than You Think." Smithsonian, June 1991, pp. 52-60.
Iverson, Annemarie. "Ozone." Harper'due south Bazaar, Nov 1993, pp. 208-twoscore.
Lord, Shirley. "Bulletin In a Bottle." Vogue, May 1992, p. 220.
Raphael, Anna. "Ahh! Aromatherapy." Delicious!, December 1994, pp. 47-48.
— Evelyn South. Dorman
Source: http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Perfume.html
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